Versace Autumn/Winter 2018.
In a superb reaction to the global #metoo and #timesup movements, it was a rare designer who did not choose to make their women feel stronger and more powerful. From bold silhouettes to layered outerwear, this season’s shows were all about feminine magnitude. Here are just some of our favourites.
Salvatore Ferragamo Autumn/Winter 2018
Call of the wild
Taking a leaf perhaps from Zsa Zsa Gabor, Edie Sedgwick and of course, Azzedine Alaïa’s memorable Autumn/Winter 1991 collection, the latest animal-print looks are anything but shy. Consider Versace’s head-to-toe take with a tiger-striped coat and leopard-spotted boots, literally capped off with even more exoticism. Dolce & Gabbana won praise for its softer giraffe reference, with a pussy bow and top-handle tote – two items long associated with strong women – driving the point further home. Balenciaga and Roberto Cavalli both paid homage to the rarer white cats, while Tom Ford and Ashley Williams went for daring hues of red and pink.
As all eyes turn to everyday superheroes, the industry renews its romance with the elegant cape. Burberry closed its show with a sweeping rainbow fur coat modelled by Cara Delevingne, who returned to the runway for Christopher Bailey in his swansong for the British brand. Erdem would be the go-to for a dark floral fantasy, while Sacai, Loewe and Givenchy kept it interesting with more structure and highly detailed trim. If you’re headed for cooler climes hit up Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant and Missoni, all of which beckon warmly with that inviting softness.
Sense and sensuality
Silken pleasures seduced showgoers at Fashion Weeks across the globe as signature scarves were reborn in the most desirable of dresses and skirts. Salvatore Ferragamo’s gorgeous red creation was adorned with Mandarin ducks offset with hints of china blue. Equally inspired by nature, Gucci and Richard Quinn played their florals to perfection. Celiné and Marine Serre’s more artistic renditions could only be described as gallery-worthy. In addition, Toga and Oscar de la Renta’s polished pieces were made for modern-day Grace Kellys.
Heritage tweed in various forms had style enthusiasts everywhere singing the Queen’s sartorial praises. Fendi redefined ladylike with an impeccably tailored jacket and skirt with a touch of pleats – add shiny chic boots and a knotted belt for more pizzazz. Chanel exceeded all expectations with its refined ensembles, as befits the iconic fabric’s key place in the maison’s history. Meanwhile, the Eighties-esque oversized silhouettes at Miu Miu, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs prompted many to dance with somebody. On the other end of the spectrum, the sleeker futuristic forms at Altuzarra and The Row likely left audiences intrigued by fashion cosmology.